三 · Writings

A Glossary for the Evening

The words you'll hear across the counter
Omakase
“I leave it up to you.” A meal entirely in the chef's hands, served course by course at their pace.
Itamae
The chef — literally “in front of the board.” At an omakase they cook an arm's length away, which is half the experience.
Nigiri
A hand-pressed pillow of seasoned rice with a slice of fish on top. The centerpiece of the meal; eat it the moment it's set down.
Otsukuri / Sashimi
Sliced raw fish served without rice, so the cut and the fish stand alone.
Neta
The topping — the fish or seafood that sits on the rice.
Shari
The seasoned sushi rice. A good itamae is judged as much on the shari as on the fish.
Gari
Pickled ginger eaten between pieces to reset the palate.
Agari
The hot green tea served at the counter, traditionally to close the meal.
Itadakimasu
Said before eating — a small thanks for the meal about to be received.
Gochisousama
Said at the end — “thank you for the feast.”
Kanpai
“Cheers.” The toast you'll raise to each other. The only one that matters tonight.
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